Amorgos; a guide to this hidden gem of Greece.
On my 6 week journey on the Greek Islands, I visited 8 islands in total, some popular, some much less. In my handy-dandy travel guide, I read about Amorgos, an island in the lesser Cyclades. With ferry tickets being cheap and having read about this one road that was specifically mentioned in the guide, I decided to go and see it. I did not regret that! This seahorse shaped island came to be my favourite island in Greece so far.
Why visit Amorgos?
Because I don’t expect you to visit the island just because I say it’s my favorite :) Amorgos is a rugged island away from the mainstream islands and their tourism. From undisturbed whitewashed villages to crystal clear seas perfect for swimming or diving! The island is perfect for stargazing, hiking, or relaxing and has a history too (just visit the monastery).
How to get to Amorgos
The only way to get to Amorgos is by ferry. The island has no airport but two ports where ferries call. When you visit this island, you’ll most likely come from either Athens, Naxos, Mykonos, Santorini, or one of the other islands of the lesser Cyclades.
From Athens, the ferry trip will be around 9 hours long for a direct route and can be longer if you have a stopover in Naxos, for example. Prices for this ferry would be around €50,- to €85,- depending on the speed of the ferry. A better option would be to fly into Mykonos, Santorini, or the domestic airport of Naxos and take a ferry from there. Another great option would be to combine your trip to Amorgos with an island hopping trip where you visit more of the islands in the area. I think this is generally the best way to get the most out of everything.
From Mykonos the trip will take about 2 hours and will cost you around a €100,- as Mykonos is a popular destination for which ferries are usually a bit more pricey.
From Santorini the ferry trip will take around an hour and cost you about €75,- as Santorini is a popular island just like Mykonos.
From Naxos, ferries can take a minimum of 70 minutes or up to 5½ hours depending on the route. These ferries are generally inexpensive at around €10,- though prices may vary depending on the speed of the ferry and can go up to €65,-.
From other islands in the lesser Cyclades, these trips will usually be a bit cheaper and not as long, a ferry between Donousa & Amorgos can for example be as cheap as €7,-.
You can find and book your ferry tickets with Ferry Hopper, which has been my buddy during my entire trip in Greece
When to go & for how long
I personally visited in the fall, when the island is fairly quiet and the temperatures cool down yet the sea stays form enough for a refreshing dip. The island feels like it’s taking a nap from its busier summer months. Though that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to do because the weather is perfect for hiking and exploring the island.
If you were to visit in the summer months, it would be much warmer (and windier!), but in turn, you’d get to experience some of the island’s festivals that happen around this time of year; one of the biggest ones is the feast day of Agia Paraskevi which is celebrated with plenty of wine and food and thousands of people gather together on this day. A bonus of the summer is that everything is open, and ferries are the most frequent.
If you were to visit in the spring the island would be the greenest, perfect for hiking and getting those beautiful photos. The water will be a bit chilly but after a hike to a secluded beach, nothing can be as rewarding as a refreshing dip! The main event during this time of year is Greek Easter in April or May, when village streets are spread with wild herbs, little bonfires are lit and there are fireworks.
I recommend visiting for at least 3 days (and preferably even more!) instead of the 2 that I was there for. Though 2 days is enough to see everything when you’re in a rush it’s simply not ideal and doesn’t allow you to really soak everything up and maybe also go for a hike. If I were to visit again I’d go for 4 to 7 days just so I can soak the island up more properly.
How to get around
It is possible to get around Amorgos by public transport, the bus company of the island has at least 2 services a day between the towns and tickets aren’t too expensive. But the best way to get everything out of the island is by renting a car, even if you do so for only a day like I did. I rented the car at Thomas Rentals but there are various rental companies in Katapola & Aegiali (the two ports of Amorgos). It is also possible to explore the island by e-bike or by getting in a taxi.
Where to stay
Aegiali is the only 5-star hotel on the entire island Aegialis Hotel & Spa, is has gorgeous views, a pool & spa, and hosts yoga retreats. The nightly rate in the summer is around €380,- but this drops in all the other seasons. Other than this hotel there are plenty of guesthouses, villas, or smaller hotels that can accommodate you across the island with rates ranging from €60,- to €300,- during the summer months. I stayed at Studios Akrogiali in Aegiali and the host came to pick me up at the ferry to transport me up the hill to the accommodation. The place was clean and comfortable and had a little kitchen to cook your own meals.
Where to go
Last but not least, the most fun one! Where should you go on this rugged island? The nature alone on this island is amazing and I’d definitely recommend driving along the main road that goes from the north to the South of the island because you get some great views along here. I recommend visiting the charming towns of Katapola & Aegiali (if you have not already arrived here by ferry) as well as Chora and wandering around its streets, in Chora you definitely shouldn’t miss the old windmills either. Furthermore, I’d advise visiting the shipwreck of Olympia which is a nice short hike from the road where you can park your car. Kalotaritissa beach all the way to the south of the island is perfect for some relaxing and a dip in the crystal clear waters.
If you’re looking for a spot to watch the sunset from I’d recommend the Church of St John Chrysostom. It lies on the northern part of the island and it does take some off-roading to get to but it gives you great views over the island of Nikouria.
The absolute highlight of the island; is the 11th century Holy Monastery of the Virgin Mary Chozoviotissa. This monastery was carved out of a cliff (and originally not whitewashed) so it was perfectly camouflaged against the pirates. Make sure to dress modestly when visiting and be prepared to walk up quite some stairs to get to the entrance. It is the highlight of the island and during summer months it can get really busy here, mid-October and early in the morning there were no lines, however. Once in the monastery, you’ll be greeted by a volunteer who’ll tell you all about the history of the place and of the island as well. The area by the monastery is also great for watching the sunrise 😉.
